When we were all in New Zealand, we travelled round in a hire car and, although most of the accommodation was sorted in advance, on a few occasions we just arrived in a town and asked the people at the information centre where was good to stay. It all worked out well and most times, we ended up with high-end, luxury apartments for peanuts as it was winter and they weren't going to get filled otherwise.

While this was all very fine and wonderful, it's the closest I'm likely to come to an adventure holiday. I like to have it all organised in advance. I like to know where I am going when, how, when I am likely to get there, all in the knowledge that there will be walls and a roof (to keep the birds out), a comfortable bed and something to make some coffee with when I get there. I like to have pieces of paper to consult, phone numbers to phone.

Every last day of this holiday has its travel and accommodation documented in this way and I had expected the problem to be with JetStar out of Melbourne on the way to Brisbane. JetStar is FlyBe. It's the budget wing of QANTAS. This is worrying on several counts:

1. Last time I flew on anything similar, EasyJet stranded me in Berlin Airport for nine hours with no chair and a voucher for Bratwurst.

2. JetStar fly from Avalon airport which, continuing the Arthurian theme, is about as difficult to find as The Holy Grail. When you get there, it's like the "Let's Play Airports" Airport. For example, it has one security scanner for all passengers, which looks like someone made it out of a DIY electronics kit you get free with a magazine. "AUSTRALIAN BUDGET AIRPORT MAGAZINE: Week by week, each part gives you all the basic services and facilities you'll need for your OWN international travel gateway. 96 parts with a FREE BINDER which you won't use. First part $1.99. Subsequent parts $9.99. Next week - REAL Duty Free shop with Baileys miniatures, travel socket adaptors and a kangaroo keyring..."

3. QANTAS seem to be having difficulty keeping their full-priced wings attached to their planes, never mind the budget ones....

As it happened, that bit all went off without a hitch and so it was that the first travel problem turned out to be waiting in Harvey Bay for Dave-O and his Bus of Danger and Intolerence back to Brisbane.

Well, he didn't turn up and four of us were left sitting on our suitcases.

The Kingfisher woman explained that they didn't use that firm anymore. There had been some complaints, and what Dave-O had said about them going out of business was true, although not because the boss was terminally ill. Because the boss had been pulled over by the police and the whole firm was in some kind of financial, organisational and, possibly, criminal mess. Our journey up to Hervey Bay had been their last.

How were we supposed to get back to Brisbane, we asked. Admittedly, my suitcase had wheels and made a good emergency seat but, when I gave it a cursory once-over while packing it earlier that morning, no engine.

"No worries," said desk-woman and she sauntered off in search of an email about just this matter which she seemed to remember seeing. She returned clutching Greyhound tickets for the luxury coach leaving Hervey Bay coach station, fifteen minutes drive away, in ten minutes. Pointing out the glaringly obvious problem this posed led to our suitcases being quickly loaded onto a bright Kingfisher-blue tourist shuttle bus and a driver as mad as Dave-O, but safer, hurtling us towards the town centre, tuning his short wave radio into the frequency used by the STOP-GO lollipop turners at the roadworks, while desk-woman got on the phone to Greyhound to ask them to hold the bus.

Did we make it?



Of course! Like I would be relating this in such an easy-going, light-hearted manner if we hadn't...

The coach was only half full, and bliss compared with the theme-park ride which had been the journey north. We pulled into Brisbane right on time...

As we left the Kingfisher Bay Hotel and Resort Center Parcs Experience this morning (I added the last bit...), we finally got a look back at where we had been staying.

It's on the shoreline and hidden by the trees from further inland, so you can't get a good view of it from anywhere really. This was the best I could manage...



...and that's on the zoom limit of the camera.

You have to fill in a little survey card when you leave to say what you thought. (When I say "you have to...", I don't mean they feed you to the dingoes if you don't, or anything like that - it's just suggested.) Most of the stay was brilliant and so got ticks in the far left boxes (or the far right ones...) and the food in the Seabelle restaurant was the absolute best of the holiday so far, but I did find myself mentioning the birds in the breakfast room.

Swooping down from the rafters to pick at anything that was left on tables, or stealing bits of croissant from the servery, (of which unsuspecting guests then selected the remainder and ate), occasionally chased by waitresses with those hand-held plant spray things, I assume full of irritating bird poison fluid guaranteed to cause agonising death, but I suspect full of water. How water will deter them, I'm not sure, given that it sometimes rains...

Indoor birds seems to be a common phenomenon here. Lots of coffee shops have them, they are rife in shopping centres. No-one seems to give it much thought, nor pay any atention when they dive-bomb some scrap of dinner nearby, narrowly missing taking your ear off with their outstretched, gliding razor-wings. And perhaps it's only me that's bothered.

Fraser Island is just beautiful.

It's made entirely of sand; in fact, it's the largest sand island in the world. This means that nothing should grow on it, as there's no soil, and no water should flow on it and there should be no lakes, because sand is porous.

But as Alan, our guide, pointed out. "Mother Nature finds a way..." (I think this was also Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park...) First, let's do plants. The island is virtually covered with forest...



Here's the primary school geography: this happens over thousands of years because very hardy salt-water loving plants colonise the dunes closest to the sea. They die and leave decomposing plant matter, which we all know becomes a thin layer of soil. A second wave of plants uses this to grown and so on... Eventually, the whole island is covered in many different types of forest...



Eventually, sand blown in from the eastern shore creates enormous, mile-long dunes which reclaim the forest and bury the trees...



Then we have lakes... There are two types on the island. One is formed because all the rain water which has ever fallen on the island soaks through the surface and forms a gigantic aquifer beneath the surface. Where the sand levels off to the top of the aquifer, water emerges. These are called window lakes, because they are a window on the water stored in the sand - 40 times more than all the water in Sydney Harbour.

The second type of lake is called a perched dune lake. There are only about 80 of these in the world and Fraser Island has 42 of them. The most touristy is Lake Mackenzie...



The sand is so white and the water so clear. (The sky is so blue as well, but I didn't want to start writing poetry by accident...) Perched dune lakes are high up and are formed when a sand bowl is lined with plant debris and effectively becomes waterproof. (Mr Miller, my secondary school Geography teacher would be so proud...)

All the roads on Fraser Island, or to give it its Aboriginal name, K'Gari, are sand roads and are hard going even in a 4WD. But the eastern shore, Seventy Five Mile Beach, is for all purposes, a motorway. Vehicles bomb up and down it, and legally, the rules of the road still apply - you have to drive on the left. Overtaking allowed...



The beach is also the final resting place of the SS Maheno - an Edwardian cruise liner built in Dumbarton. No-one died when she ran ashore in the thirties, but she was even more severely damaged when the Aussie Air Force used her for bombing practice...



For the moment, the wreck is stable and you can explore it close up, at least with eyes and cameras. The likelihood is that it will disintegrate and become dangerous within a few years and may have to be taken away or dismantled and buried completely. Enjoy it while you can...

OK, finally, streams - or creeks. Again, these form because of the pressure of the water held inside the island forces water out at sea level. They look strange because they have sandy river beds, but are beautifully clear. And the water is perfectly safe to drink, having been through the biggest and most effective sand filter in the world over a period of thousands of years.



There's so much to say about the island - no kangaroos, wallabies or koalas; but dingoes and monitor lizards and wolf spiders (2cm long and can kill you) in droves - all of which we saw. In the case of the spiders, on a night ranger-guided tour where you spot the spiders by shining a high-powered torch into the bush and look for the eyes shining back.

Creepy...